French Fashion History: Part 3.

In my previous French history posts, I covered Guillotine fashion and how to keep a low profile during a dangerous Revolution.

But what do you wear when you're sick of all that virtuous, boring revolutionary stuff and you want to party like it's 1794? You turn things up a notch, Incroyables and Merveilleuses style!



The White Terror:


After the death of prominent revolution figure Robespierre and the end of the Reign of Terror,
the lust for extravagant fashion resurfaced on the streets of Paris. Remember how the Sans-Culottes' style embodied anti-monarchist rebellion? Well, Les Incroyables and Merveilleuses were the epitome of post-Terreur sentiment with their wild mix of exaggerated clothing.

The sombre, modest look of the revolutionaries with their darker colors and cheap fabrics was meant to signify the equality of man and downplay wealth. But, what history keeps reminding us over and over again is that all men are NOT equal and eventually the bling will be back.

Seems like some folk were nostalgic for the days when they had the freedom to be their ostentatious selves. Silks, ribbons and powdered wigs slowly crept back into fashion.

The men typically wore ancien regime knee breeches,




huge ties that swallowed up their chins and English style frock coats with over-sized collars:


These dandified dudes were sometimes referred to as the Gilded Youth or "Muscadins" because of the musky cologne they would wear in in defiance of Revolutionary austerity. In your face, Revolution!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For some reason, it also became fashionable to drop the "r" from common speech.
Who can explain it? We say "like" way too much.

Wheee!!!! We still have heads!!!!





For the ladies, the a la Grecque look was hot:




This Grecian trend was spearheaded by Parisian woman-about-town Josephine de Beauharnais (future wife of Napoleon)





and historical sex-pot Theresa Tallien:



The neo-classical style was inspired in part by the writing of Enlightenment philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau who had a great deal of influence on revolutionary politics. He believed that mankind was at it's best in a state of nature and simplicity. The women emulated blissful images of goddesses, pagan mythology and um nakedness?
The period between The Reign of Terror and the reign of Napoleon was a free-for-all of risque fashion debauchery.


Women would even go so far as to purposely dampen their dresses to achieve a clingy, classical statue, see-through effect. The look was completed with golden sandals and either flowing Grecian ringlets, powdered wigs or cropped coiffures des victimes:


Muslin, gauze, lace or light cotton was draped around the body and held together with jeweled cuffs and pins.




Theresa Tallien was known for showing up at public events half-dressed:


The more modest ladies wore skin colored undergarments. Wimps.







The Greek Goddess attire didn't catch on in other parts of Europe and once this guy burst onto the scene, the brashness of post-revolution fever started to wane:



As the 18th century came to a close, street fashion became more conservative and elegant.
Although the dandies favored the glitzy Napoleonic style, most men found simple clothing more practical for conducting everyday business.

The diaphanous gown was dead and women began wearing the Empire look as dictated by Josephine:



Overall, the French Revolution was a confusing mish-mash of politics, ideas, wars, death, life, fashion, sadness, hope and change. I've been thinking a lot about how our political and social climate affects modern dress. There isn't much left in terms of style that can be considered boundary-pushing. Fashion journalists often try to connect the dots on how present day clothing is influenced by modern events. I'm not entirely convinced though; do we have too much freedom and choice here in the western world to be sartorially influenced in any way????????